An unused vintage chirimen silk kimono with a sumptuous sarasa pattern on a paprika coloured background.
This kimono has a hanakuitori - a flower-eating bird', a motif that was adopted from Chinese art. If you look carefully you will see the mythical phoenix hidden in amongst the flowers of the design. The kimono has an off-white silk inner & brown silk hakkake (the inner cuff and hem of the lining).
Chirimen is a heavy silk crepe with a crinkled uneven texture created by the weft thread being kept tighter than the warp thread during weaving, while also being twisted. It was developed in the late 16th century and became popular during the Edo period (1603-1868). Chirimen fabric drapes beautifully and is difficult to crease which makes it popular in kimono making.
Sarasa are designs based on the painted & printed calico fabrics imported into Japan from India in the 17th century.